Paris & Milan Fashion Week - FW22/23

September 2022

The Paris-Milan axis, here is the perspective we propose to you to end in beauty the frenzied cycle of fashion weeks. On the program: convergences and divergences, fetish obsessions vs. asexual androgyny, pulsating red vs. shocking pink, gender or sex, we finally find within the two great fashion capitals a common questioning on what will be tomorrow's feminine and/or masculine fashion, on the relevance of the distinction between the two which seems to be now over. But far from leading to a monolithic vision of the silhouette, we fortunately see exciting gaps between the revealed body and the caparisoned body, the desirable body and the powerful body, the assumed sexiness and the sometimes confusing gender-fluidity. Come on, we help you to see clearly!

Bombers vs Shearling

A little tired of the down jacket? Good news, designers are rehabilitating the nylon bomber that we had lost sight of a little and are putting their faith in the skin turned inside out, in natural tones or recoloured.

Prada / Raf Simons / Isabel Marant

Sacai / Off-White / Palm Angels

Suit vs Coat

A duel that is not really a duel, and for good reason: the overstrimmed suit jacket vs. the large, well-shouldered man's coat, the same craze for an androgynous wardrobe with a "bossy" look.

Gucci / Ambush / Saint Laurent

Stella McCartney / Gauchere / Vtmnts

Checks always

Clearly, we can not say that the subject is very new but the checks have the long life and are worked by many houses. You can choose between the graphic tartan or the eternal Prince of Wales but in brown tones.

Roberto Cavalli / Off-White / Marine Serre

Gucci / Longchamp / Miu Miu

Bustier vs Bustier !

Omnipresent for several seasons, it is reinvented in the form of two complementary avatars: the bustier in shirt mode in a "boy meets girl" style or the bustier in blazer mode, worked in hybrid tailoring.

Balmain / Rokh / Fendi

Sacai / Dolce & Gabbana / Sportmax


Emblematic of a season that combines sexy and empowerment, the harness spirit and the bra-dress are imposing themselves on the catwalks, in the street or in the office that remains to be seen. The black straps dramatize the bust and joyfully revisit the clichés dominatrix and fetish.

Balmain / Koché / Roberto Cavalli

Stella McCartney / Courrèges / Dolce & Gabbana

Vestals & Transparency

In the midst of a fashion world mostly obsessed with the question of gender and sex, an Olympian island preserved advocates draping and wrapping like a contemporary vestal virgin, but with no velvet or nothing, or bets on renewed transparencies with shivering textures.

Stella McCartney / Isabel Marant / Atlein

Fendi / Ester Manas / Prada


It is everywhere; black or coloured, sexy or minimalist, decorated or semi-transparent, the catsuit is also unique in its details, while fully assuming the body-conscious effect.

Roberto Cavalli / Blumarine / Dolce & Gabbana

Acne Studios / Balenciaga / Stella McCartney

Thin straps vs. tank top

Two ways to show your shoulders, revealing the great issues of the season, the ultra-fine and hyper feminine strap, or the white tank top like a man, to be worn primarily with pants or a leather skirt.

Bottega Veneta / Saint Laurent / Givenchy

Bottega Veneta / Prada / Chloé

Low waist Y2K

It will not have escaped anyone, it is the return in fanfare of the low waist pants, still a point marked by the trend Y2K and nightmare of the parents of students already traumatized by the crop top. So, the low waist, we will play it in colour preferably, or otherwise we choose the option jeans too big - too wide, or even with glittering decor.

Missoni / Isabel Marant / MSGM

Givenchy / Versace / MSGM

The skirt : mini vs leather

In the skirt department, we are offered two clearly identified options: either the mini, but like really mini, or the black leather skirt below the knee, version bourgeoise torride.

Versace / Courrèges / Miu Miu

Gucci / Hermès / Chloé

Red vs. Pink

Apart from the inevitable black this season, it will be intense red or shocking pink, an eternal duel of colours that are already omnipresent but that do not want to give up anything.

Marine Serre / Max Mara / Sacai

Chanel / Valentino / Loewe

And if not?

Well, otherwise, on the catwalk, it's blue, period! A graphic and dynamic blue, a bit 80s, which makes a comeback very fast, barely gone, already back.

Louis Vuitton / Off-White / Koché

Isabel Marant / Tom Ford / MSGM

Tie vs. Waders

There, everything is said! Tie vs. Waders, a duel that embodies all the duality of this FW22 season that navigates between hot sexy and tomboy attitude. Tie AND waders ? No one dared but it's worth a try.

Louis Vuitton / Gucci / Miu Miu

Isabel Marant / Bottega Veneta / Courrèges

Dark Mood

Demna Gvasalia, Artistic Director of Balenciaga is of Georgian origin; empathizing with Ukrainian refugees, he makes the show a staggering and dark manifesto, blowing a snowstorm on silhouettes struggling against the wind.

Focus on...

... the sustainable-glam of the young designer Kevin Germanier to cheer up; he presented his first physical show in Paris. On the program: multicoloured beads and feathers, the proof that one can be ethical, sustainable, conscious, and yet glamorous as hell.


Photo credits:

Phil Oh, Alessandro Lucioni, Paolo Lanzi, Salavatore Dragone, Aramando Grillo, Isidore Montag, Filipo Fior, Daniele Oberrauch, GoRunway

Thomas Zylberman
Senior Designer Women's RTW

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