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A little tired of the down jacket? Good news, designers are rehabilitating the nylon bomber that we had lost sight of a little and are putting their faith in the skin turned inside out, in natural tones or recoloured.
A duel that is not really a duel, and for good reason: the overstrimmed suit jacket vs. the large, well-shouldered man's coat, the same craze for an androgynous wardrobe with a "bossy" look.
Clearly, we can not say that the subject is very new but the checks have the long life and are worked by many houses. You can choose between the graphic tartan or the eternal Prince of Wales but in brown tones.
Omnipresent for several seasons, it is reinvented in the form of two complementary avatars: the bustier in shirt mode in a "boy meets girl" style or the bustier in blazer mode, worked in hybrid tailoring.
Emblematic of a season that combines sexy and empowerment, the harness spirit and the bra-dress are imposing themselves on the catwalks, in the street or in the office that remains to be seen. The black straps dramatize the bust and joyfully revisit the clichés dominatrix and fetish.
In the midst of a fashion world mostly obsessed with the question of gender and sex, an Olympian island preserved advocates draping and wrapping like a contemporary vestal virgin, but with no velvet or nothing, or bets on renewed transparencies with shivering textures.
It is everywhere; black or coloured, sexy or minimalist, decorated or semi-transparent, the catsuit is also unique in its details, while fully assuming the body-conscious effect.
Two ways to show your shoulders, revealing the great issues of the season, the ultra-fine and hyper feminine strap, or the white tank top like a man, to be worn primarily with pants or a leather skirt.
It will not have escaped anyone, it is the return in fanfare of the low waist pants, still a point marked by the trend Y2K and nightmare of the parents of students already traumatized by the crop top. So, the low waist, we will play it in colour preferably, or otherwise we choose the option jeans too big - too wide, or even with glittering decor.
In the skirt department, we are offered two clearly identified options: either the mini, but like really mini, or the black leather skirt below the knee, version bourgeoise torride.
Apart from the inevitable black this season, it will be intense red or shocking pink, an eternal duel of colours that are already omnipresent but that do not want to give up anything.
Well, otherwise, on the catwalk, it's blue, period! A graphic and dynamic blue, a bit 80s, which makes a comeback very fast, barely gone, already back.
There, everything is said! Tie vs. Waders, a duel that embodies all the duality of this FW22 season that navigates between hot sexy and tomboy attitude. Tie AND waders ? No one dared but it's worth a try.
Demna Gvasalia, Artistic Director of Balenciaga is of Georgian origin; empathizing with Ukrainian refugees, he makes the show a staggering and dark manifesto, blowing a snowstorm on silhouettes struggling against the wind.
... the sustainable-glam of the young designer Kevin Germanier to cheer up; he presented his first physical show in Paris. On the program: multicoloured beads and feathers, the proof that one can be ethical, sustainable, conscious, and yet glamorous as hell.
Photo credits:
Phil Oh, Alessandro Lucioni, Paolo Lanzi, Salavatore Dragone, Aramando Grillo, Isidore Montag, Filipo Fior, Daniele Oberrauch, GoRunway
