New York Fashion Week - FW22/23

September 2022

It's true that the brilliance of New York Fashion Week was somewhat tarnished by the cancellation of the Tom Ford show, due to multiple delays caused by the pandemic. But if the Big Apple fashion has lost some of its great names and charismatic leaders, it has also gained new figures and shows that it is able to renew itself. Little-known labels such as Nihl, No Sesso and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy have made inclusivity and the rejection of stereotypes their spearhead. Unexpected presentation formats were proposed, with even an incursion into the metaverse fashion, to be discovered at the end of this article.This season, we propose you a highlight of the most outstanding collections and the absolutely essential New York designers.

Tory Burch

How far we've come! In just a few years, Tory Burch has become an ultra bankable label, constantly moving upmarket and creative with each season. From a fashion that was originally easy to wear and accessible, even consensual, the designer has gradually moved to a more pointed wardrobe, with a more assertive design. This season, she pays homage to New York and dares bold and graphic color combinations. Focus on the must-have dresses of her collection.

Tory Burch - Photos Isidore Montag

Collina Strada

Designer Hillary Taymour has made Collina Strada a leading label in terms of inclusivity and sustainablility, through energetic, largely handcrafted, socially engaged fashion. Joyful and youthful, this collection was presented in the form of a reality show starring Tommy Dorfman, a high-profile transgender actress. This season, Taymour plays with layering that seems joyfully improvised, spontaneous, with liberating creativity.

Collina Strada - Photos Charlie Engman

Proenza Schouler

In almost 20 years, the creative duo of Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough has become institutionalized and is now THE name of the game in New York design, with a style that is always sharp and formally ambitious. Initially known for their fondness for corsetry, this season they offer a relaxed and dynamic version of their iconic silhouette with a structured bust, which responds to the voluminous and moving fullness of the bottom of the silhouette, accentuated by a work of basques on the hips.

Proenza Schouler - Photos Jonas Gustavsson


Is this surprising, unclassifiable label on its way to mainstreamization? Batsheva Hay has built her label on a very personal and timeless imagination, with codes that are ostensibly outdated, falsely old-fashioned but transformed into a singular, offbeat fashion, like a little country girl lost in the big city. The fashion of the big retro collars with ruffled edges in the Amish style, today taken up everywhere, it was her long before everyone else! Today, the little girl seems to have grown up and is ready to play in the big league.

Batsheva - Photos Alexei Hay

Dion Lee

Ah... the New York vestal, the Amazon of the big cities, the urban goddess with the toned and boldly sculpted body that traces its haughty path through the urban meanders... it's a recurring style figure of New York Fashion Week and many designers dedicate their collections to her. This season, focus on Dion Lee, an Australian-born designer now firmly rooted in New York: the Amazon of the city is the one who captured it this season.

Dion Lee - Photos Daniele Oberrauch


Coach is a venerable house of more than 80 years, heritage, become the incarnation of the American cool. Based on the sure values of Americana but now treated in "bold" mode by Stuart Vevers, this basically casual wardrobe reinvents the essentials by boosting them with the fashion codes of the moment. This collection celebrates a certain timelessness of US-made clothing fashions, through the clichés of cinema and TV series.

Coach - Photos Isidore Montag


A true New Yorker, Catherine Holstein designs fashion with a strong character, assertive, urban, which knows how to give confidence to women who wear it. Knowing as no one else how to combine fragility and robustness, strength and softness, she offers this season a collection mainly centered on black leather, a little matrix-isante, offering a perfectly measured balance between masculine and feminine.

Khaite - Photos Hanna Tweite

Imitation of Christ

This label, founded in 2000, has always been at the forefront of societal and environmental issues in the fashion industry, focusing on upcycling from the start. This season, the designer Tara Subkoff invests in digital creation and brings us into the fashion metaverse.

Imitation of Christ - Photos Lynsey Addario

See you soon for London fashion week!

Thomas Zylberman
Senior Designer Women's RTW

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