Milan & Paris Fashion Week - SS23

October 2022

Milan and Paris confront their fashion impulses, sometimes divergent and often complementary, with this season a common denominator centered on the morphology: tight or fluid, structured or loose, the cuts redesign the silhouette as never before. Few patterns or prints in these fashion weeks, designers focus on proportions, volumes and constructions. And without forgetting to make the buzz of course! In Milan, the brand Moncler celebrated its anniversary with a huge performance in front of the Duomo, while in the people department, Kim Kardashian came to greet the final of Dolce & Gabbana in co-designer mode, and Paris Hilton in pink embodied the Y2K minute at the closing of Versace. In Paris, Balenciaga immersed everyone in a stunning set of dripping mud with Kanye West "Ye" opening the show, the same one that delivered a surprise and controversial show with the use of the controversial slogan "White Lives Matter". So, let's get back to the main point, what to retain concretely from these fashion weeks?

Hips "bold

A striking innovation in terms of silhouette this season, the hips are highlighted, even exaggerated, with volumes sometimes borrowing from the Couture but rethought in a contemporary perspective. A bias often treated in dresses-bustiers but not only ...

Christian Dior / Schiaparelli / Lanvin

Loewe / Dolce & Gabbana / Rochas

Openings and portholes

They are innumerable these openwork cut on the body and worked in roundness a little like portholes, they are placed on the bust for an immediate visual impact way "in your face" or placed on the sides, or even shamelessly at the top of the thighs as in Burberry for example!

Marni / Off White / Paco Rabanne

Gauchere / Burberry / Chloé


Here, we think we're back to the late 90's fashion shows, at the time of the triumphant Japanese-Parisian designers, with these volumes folded like paper. A certain welcome sobriety, which tempers the obsession of the omnipresent and over-cut body.

Koché / Issey Miyake / Lanvin

Acne Studios / Prada / Acne Studios

Asymmetric fluids

Silky suppleness worked on the bias, fluid satins cut in asymmetry, nothing like it to sublimate the movement of the body as an urban vestal, minimalist certainly but sensual. Here, the fuzzy dress is queen and comes in all lengths.

Atlein / Hermès / Courrèges

Coperni / Acne Studios / Givenchy

Dirty Denim

As an alternative to satins, if there is a queen material this season, it is denim. It is worked by many labels to the point of obsession, in a very diverse way. But what caught our attention at Carlin Creative is the return of "dirty" washes, yellowed bleaches and frayed effects, worn by the Y2K wave.

Diesel / Blumarine / Givenchy

Dolce & Gabbana / Gauchere / Vaquera

Flowers and then that's it.

Very few patterns this season, carried above all by the cuts and constructions, so it is the floral that sweeps the board, logical! In Milan, it is treated as "climbing plants" in decoration or embroidery in relief, while in Paris it is played in ultra-charged prints and strong visual impact.

Fendi / Bottega Veneta / Prada

Dries Van Noten / Coperni / AZ Factory


The alternative to the printed pattern is the return in force of gradients, mostly in warm tones but sometimes venturing into more surprising shades, dense or light.

Elie Saab / GCDS / Gauchere

Etro / Longchamp / Courrèges

Mint & Turquoise

First of all, let's say it: yes, there is still pink this season, a lot of pink even, but we're starting to get a little bored, aren't we? So Carlin Creative prefers to direct you to the real new stimulating color: from mint to turquoise, we'll enjoy this new palette!

Nina Ricci / Bottega Veneta / Longchamp

Dsquared2 / Botter / Atlein

Anise & Firefly

These aniseed greens, very acidic and almost yellow, which draw towards the firefly and even until the fluo: we had already seen them when the sport trend reigned on the fashion, you remember? But now, these colors gain in sophistication and are declined on many materials in very very chic mode!

Issey Miyake / Prada / Sportmax

Elie Saab / Balenciaga / GCDS

Paris Black & White

It's a bit like the Parisian monuments, black and white is so chic, besides it's well known, Parisian women would hate color. Oh really? But beyond the clichés, this season there is a real return of black and white codes, well beyond the Parisian fashion week. Basically, it's called a trend.

Sacai / Christian Dior / Koché

Chanel / Louis Vuitton / Saint Laurent

Tailoring Forever

And yes, again and again, tailoring continues to fascinate designers, although this trend is already very low in the mass-market: large jackets over-tailored in soft materials, a proven recipe that is renewed punctually by unexpected openings ...

Botter / Rokh / Jil Sander

Dries Van Noten / Gauchere / Burberry

Pocket festival

Utility wear is taking over the catwalks with a plethora of cargo pants, but the fun part is that this trend is turning into a pocket fetish. And the more volume this one gains, the better! Miu Miu and Vuitton are having a ball!

Sacai / Diesel / Isabel Marant

Stella McCartney / Miu Miu / Louis Vuitton

The good look of the season

Last season it was the catsuit, still very present, especially in Milan. But the new must-have is the mini-top over long skirt combo, and coordinated if you please. A duo proposed in all types of materials, drapery, lace, plain or printed.

Etro / Max Mara / Christian Dior

Dolce & Gabbana / GCDS / Givenchy

To be seen ...

Everyone saw Bella Hadid at Coperni, covered in a live spray dress directly on her body, right?

Dark and confusing, the show imagined by Demna for Balenciaga in the slush; we can't wait for spring!

Pharaonic performance for the 70th anniversary of Moncler in Milan, with a cast of 1952 people all dressed in white:

Yeezy's surprise show in Paris, between performance and spiritual celebration ...

And finally, guilty pleasure, here is the Y2K minute with Paris Hilton in pink at the Versace finale!

Photo credits: Isidore Montag, Filippo Fior and Alessandro Lucioni

Thomas Zylberman
Senior Designer Women's RTW

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