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A striking innovation in terms of silhouette this season, the hips are highlighted, even exaggerated, with volumes sometimes borrowing from the Couture but rethought in a contemporary perspective. A bias often treated in dresses-bustiers but not only ...
They are innumerable these openwork cut on the body and worked in roundness a little like portholes, they are placed on the bust for an immediate visual impact way "in your face" or placed on the sides, or even shamelessly at the top of the thighs as in Burberry for example!
Here, we think we're back to the late 90's fashion shows, at the time of the triumphant Japanese-Parisian designers, with these volumes folded like paper. A certain welcome sobriety, which tempers the obsession of the omnipresent and over-cut body.
Silky suppleness worked on the bias, fluid satins cut in asymmetry, nothing like it to sublimate the movement of the body as an urban vestal, minimalist certainly but sensual. Here, the fuzzy dress is queen and comes in all lengths.
As an alternative to satins, if there is a queen material this season, it is denim. It is worked by many labels to the point of obsession, in a very diverse way. But what caught our attention at Carlin Creative is the return of "dirty" washes, yellowed bleaches and frayed effects, worn by the Y2K wave.
Very few patterns this season, carried above all by the cuts and constructions, so it is the floral that sweeps the board, logical! In Milan, it is treated as "climbing plants" in decoration or embroidery in relief, while in Paris it is played in ultra-charged prints and strong visual impact.
The alternative to the printed pattern is the return in force of gradients, mostly in warm tones but sometimes venturing into more surprising shades, dense or light.
First of all, let's say it: yes, there is still pink this season, a lot of pink even, but we're starting to get a little bored, aren't we? So Carlin Creative prefers to direct you to the real new stimulating color: from mint to turquoise, we'll enjoy this new palette!
These aniseed greens, very acidic and almost yellow, which draw towards the firefly and even until the fluo: we had already seen them when the sport trend reigned on the fashion, you remember? But now, these colors gain in sophistication and are declined on many materials in very very chic mode!
It's a bit like the Parisian monuments, black and white is so chic, besides it's well known, Parisian women would hate color. Oh really? But beyond the clichés, this season there is a real return of black and white codes, well beyond the Parisian fashion week. Basically, it's called a trend.
And yes, again and again, tailoring continues to fascinate designers, although this trend is already very low in the mass-market: large jackets over-tailored in soft materials, a proven recipe that is renewed punctually by unexpected openings ...
Utility wear is taking over the catwalks with a plethora of cargo pants, but the fun part is that this trend is turning into a pocket fetish. And the more volume this one gains, the better! Miu Miu and Vuitton are having a ball!
Last season it was the catsuit, still very present, especially in Milan. But the new must-have is the mini-top over long skirt combo, and coordinated if you please. A duo proposed in all types of materials, drapery, lace, plain or printed.
Everyone saw Bella Hadid at Coperni, covered in a live spray dress directly on her body, right?
Dark and confusing, the show imagined by Demna for Balenciaga in the slush; we can't wait for spring!
Pharaonic performance for the 70th anniversary of Moncler in Milan, with a cast of 1952 people all dressed in white:
Yeezy's surprise show in Paris, between performance and spiritual celebration ...
And finally, guilty pleasure, here is the Y2K minute with Paris Hilton in pink at the Versace finale!
Photo credits: Isidore Montag, Filippo Fior and Alessandro Lucioni
