London & New York Fashion Week - SS23

October 2022

From New York to London, Carlin Creative shares its vision of the first salvo of SS23 fashion weeks.
The Big Apple has seen a surge of energy driven by events such as the Fendi show for the Baguette bag's anniversary, the festive street parade organized by Vogue with Lil Nas X as a guest star or the unexpected collab' between Tommy Hilfiger and the British Richard Quinn. More than ever, New York is a fertile ground for young labels committed to societal issues and the representation of minorities in fashion, such as Mowalola, No Sesso or Luar.
In London, the atmosphere was different with the farewell ceremonies for Elizabeth II, which led some labels such as Burberry or Raf Simons to cancel or postpone their shows, while Mrs. Beckham joined the Parisian calendar. Many tributes to the Queen were slipped in during the shows and despite (or thanks to?) the celebrations, London was the center of the world for a few days, finally offering a global news to the city, which remains one of the most creative with new talents like Ashlyn, Tanner Fletcher or S.S. Daley.
Here is what Carlin Creative has spotted for you!

The body

The body and its expressiveness remain a strong orientation in both NYC and London, with a multitude of dynamic cuts and sculptural indentations that redesign the bust in a lively stretch mode, confirming the influence of swimwear in fashion. Symmetrical or asymmetrical, everything is possible!

Dundas / Mowalola / Mark Fast

Dion Lee / David Koma / LaQuan Smith

The bustier and the corsets

Bustiers and corsets remain very numerous and treated in extremely varied styles: retro or design, influenced by traditional corsetry or neo-carapace, outdated or show-off, they confirm their leadership again this season.

Erdem / Aliétte / Erdem

LaQuan Smith / Nensi Dojaka / Dion Lee

The dark

Even if Tom Ford's glittering and discoid glam pleased everyone, it's however necessary to note a slightly dark mood among many designers, with accents sometimes romantico-goths or based on the sobriety of an almost timeless black / white, evoking the Belgian designers of the late 90's-early 2000's period.

Christopher Kane / Simone Rocha / Richard Quinn

Proenza Schouler / Luar / Tibi

The purity

The search for purity and a minimalist, urban and contemporary look is at the center of the aesthetic concerns of New Yorkers, with this season a craze for transparency and semi-nudity, thus posing the crucial question: with or without bra?

Khaite / Eftychia / Brandon Maxwell

Tory Burch / Victor Glemaud / Peter Do

The net dress

In direct continuity, the net dress is almost a chestnut in the New York collections, it's almost an essential for some labels. Often proposed in neutral or natural tones, we are happy to see it also in flashy colors, it wakes up!

Proenza Schouler / Rejina Pyo / JW Anderson

Bronx and Banco / Susan Fang / Gabriela Hearst


How about gardening? Well, the British are totally in their element, combining agrarian romanticism and the art of the offbeat, but the New Yorkers are not to be outdone, echoing the aspirations of urbanites for bucolic spaces of freedom in the big city.

Simone Rocha / Yuhan Wang / Molly Goddard

Collina Strada / Tanner Fletcher / Lela Rose


See Fendi's style exercise around the Baguette bag: 25 years and thank you Carrie Bradshaw!

Tommy Hilfiger x Richard Quinn

Always adept at Show Now / Buy Now, Tommy Hilfiger presented at the end of its FW show the collab' logo with the British Richard Quinn.

Vogue, 130th anniversary

And to make the party even crazier, Vogue has called all the tops and Lil Nas X himself for the 130th anniversary of the magazine, in the streets of the Big Apple!

See you soon for the fashion week in Milan!

Photo credits: Sebastian Faena, Gorunway, Monica Feudi, Brand, Cameron Whaley

Thomas Zylberman
Senior Designer Women's RTW

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