Beauty

Interview: Print, blurring the standards of beauty

September 2022

As spring approaches, the weariness of the length of the pandemic and the restrictions imposed is added to the anxiety of an unclear context, with no date for an end to the crisis being set. In this period where fears seem to supplant hopes for change, why not give a voice to young entrepreneurs who are actively participating, through their project, in the creation of a different world?

We had the opportunity to discuss with Anne Wonner, the founder ofESTAMPE COSMETICS. Officially launched in early 2021, Estampe is the first natural, eco-designed and gender-neutral makeup brand in France.

Driven by the desire to de-gender makeup and to help each person gain self-confidence, this young market entrant offers a new vision of makeup and beauty.

Alexandra Hostier - Fashion Editor : Hello Anne! How would you define your project "Estampe" and how did the idea of its creation come about?

Anne Wonner - Founder of Estampe Cosmetics: Hello Carlin! Estampe is an eco-designed and non-genetic makeup brand that helps us gain self-confidence without veiling or modifying our singularity. This idea was born from a simple observation: we wear makeup to gain self-confidence. However, neither beauty nor self-confidence are questions of gender. It therefore seems right today to open this category to any interested person, without freezing the use of these products to a given gender.

Anne Wonner - Founder of Estampe Cosmetics


E.K: Have you always been passionate about the world of cosmetics?

S.B : Yes, I love beauty since childhood. Does this come from my very elegant and coquettish grandmother? It's possible, I think she passed on to me her love of beauty in all its forms. This childhood passion came mainly through the world of perfume: after years of collecting perfume miniatures as a little girl and being fascinated by advertising campaigns, I thought of becoming a nose. I had this double interest for art and science: I finally opted for applied arts.

A.H: Can you tell us more about this desire to "de-gender" makeup? Why define yourself as a "non-gender" brand, rather than a unisex brand?

A.W: First of all, it is important to remember that "gender" is primarily cultural and social, whereas "sex" is biological. The gender of a person is composed of his behaviors, his gestures, his style or any other non biological attribute. At Estampe, we deconstruct a binary vision of gender, an idea according to which a person is either female or male. We approach gender above all as a fluid notion, variable in time and according to people. According to us, beauty is above all an energy and it is expressed in all genders. Once this is explained, it is clear that using the term "unisex" is not correct and too narrow to include the maximum diversity that makes up this world.

F Campaign / H Campaign

A.H: As stated on your website: "helping each person to gain self-confidence" is your goal. What vision of beauty and make-up do you want to communicate with Estampe ?

A.W : Make-up has often conveyed an ultra glamorous, even sexualized image of women. Even more seriously, the industry has created false visions of the results possible with make-up, via advertisements where a model's complexion was ultra photoshopped (big brands have even been pinned for false advertising). I think that these unattainable beauty standards have impacted our self-esteem. In the same way that reserving makeup for women has marginalized anyone else who wants to use it. Why is this? Our vision is that of a simple, natural and pleasant makeup, that we use to make ourselves feel good, and not to conform to societal norms. It is a makeup that goes beyond gender stereotypes. Finally, it is a makeup that is committed to the environment, with a natural, refillable and plastic-free range.

Beauty standards

A.H: "Our makeup is natural and eco-designed, we are committed to respecting a high level of naturalness" we can indeed read on your website. How does this eco-responsible commitment of Estampe translate in concrete terms?

A.W : Our eco-responsible commitment is mainly expressed on two levels. First of all, we find it in the formulas, in the composition. We have established a strict "black list" of ingredients. We have thus excluded a large number of ingredients that are controversial or proven to be harmful to the skin but also to the environment because they are not very biodegradable. Secondly, our commitment is visible in the packaging. We have created a universal box (compatible with all the references of the range) and refillable cork, a naturally renewable material, 100% natural and collected in Spain. Our packaging is plastic-free and made in a country bordering France. We have managed to stay local in an industry where the majority of containers are usually made in Asia. For our products, the manufacturing is done either in France or in the north of Italy.

Light beige antiques / Packaging / Cork case

A.H: Their pre-orders were open until February 21st. Can you tell us what products are in your very first line?

A.W: Today we have 4 basics for a fresh complexion: a lip balm, a concealer, a mattifying powder and a bronzing powder.

A.H: Even before launching your crowdfunding campaign, you moved from simple talk about inclusivity to direct action, by setting up (successfully) a podcast and monthly participatory photo shoots. Can you tell us more about these two formats, their goals and impacts on building Estampe and its community?

A.W: For us, the podcast is a way to talk to other entrepreneurs who want to have a positive impact on society and it is also a way to talk about Estampe from the inside. Besides that, our participative photo shoots are a way to concretize our mission: give people confidence. We allow members of our community to be photographed in a studio, by professionals and in exchange they talk about their vision of beauty.

Podcast

This allows to highlight a plural and real beauty and it is important not to impose any discourse or norms but to leave the place to the expression of each one.

Photo shoot #egoboost - @estampecosmetics


A.H: What positive impact do you think these periods of confinement had on the vision of beauty and make-up in our society?

A.W : I think we realized thanks to the successive confinements that we did a lot of things to conform to the outside world. Forced to stay at home a lot, we stopped doing certain things that we imposed on ourselves daily, or on the contrary, we tried new things without fear of the others' look. The positive lesson is that we have rediscovered the pleasure of doing things for ourselves and not to exist in the eyes of others. A lesson that I sincerely hope will be kept in time.

A.H: What are the projects and development objectives for Estampe in 2021?

A.W : The big project is the launch of the e-commerce site Estampe and (I hope), the development of new products before the end of 2021!

Self love revolution graphic design


A.H: Thank you very much Anne, for your inspiring answers and sharing. Find more information and follow the beautiful ESTAMPE adventure on their website or on their Instagram account right here.

Alexandra Hostier
Fashion Editor

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