March 2023

For this season FW23, the Paris Fashion Week has asserted a message that could not be clearer: fashion is really a serious thing, and we are not there just to chat in the front row. Black and white, red, leather, androgynous tailoring. Some very long and some very short. In other words, the quintessence of a totally Parisian fashion, nervous, urban, with a strong character. It should be noted that in terms of fashion-geopolitics, the PFW benefits from an unprecedented effect of attraction, draining to it more and more designers from other capitals: Victoria Beckham, Peter Dundas, Zimmerman among others ... some presenting their first or second show in Paris. And a number of young labels that have recently emerged have confirmed their raison d'être and their relevance.
So, this season Carlin Creative offers you an analysis that is 100% Paris!
Here's everything you need to know:

Dark Vestal:

A little bit gothic, a little bit witchy, here comes our romantic heroine with a dark temperament, our amazon of the dark times:

Ann Demeulemeester / Chanel
Depressed Rich Kids / Off-white

Banker stripes :

The iconic trend of this PFW, the embodiment of the season's signature power-suiting, to treat at face value or subtly divert :

Saint Laurent / Stella McCartney
Alexander Mc Queen / Dries Van Noten


Surprise, while the angular and protruding carrures seemed to have won the day, we see again coats with eggshape volumes:

AWAKE fashion / Courrèges
Givenchy / Isabel Marant

Big Fur

Fake fur has liberated complexes, so we go all out on maximized proportions, the more voluminous it is, the better it is! 

Eenk / Loewe
Palm Angels / Situationist


We have seen many pants with ample volume partially hidden by a layering effect, in combination or hybridization:

AZ Factory / Balenciaga
Chanel / Givenchy

Re-Ingeneered Denim

A handful of Parisian labels have decided to reinvent denim, radically rethinking the constructions of jeanswear:

Rokh / Y-Project
Alaïa / Coperni

Stretch drapes

Worked in extension in stretch jersey, the drapes suddenly take on an innovative and tech dimension in an urban mermaid style:

Atlein / Coperni
Marine Serre / Rokh


Characteristic of this nervous line which reigns over the Parisian collections, the top of the bust is cut according to a clean and sharp line:

Alexander McQueen / Louis Vuitton
Calvin Luo / Stella McCartney

Sewing Knots

Directly from the vocabulary of haute-couture, the big opulent bows of the 80s overplay the codes of chic in a sometimes theatrical version:

Balmain / Gmbh
Nina Ricci / Zimmermann

Small mesh 

A small sweater or a small cardi with a pattern, as a sparkling and offbeat wink in a world of suits and bullies:

Louis Vuitton / Miu Miu
Chanel / Christian Dior

Short AND Long

Indeed, it is the question as old as humanity; it will be the fashion of the long or the short next winter? Well, both, or the art of not choosing:

Dundas / Givenchy
Marine Serre / Valentino

Like a handbag

Quiltings squared on black background, directly inspired by the luggage and the world of the handbag, from foot to cap:

Patou / Balmain
Chanel / Louis Vuitton

The return of the peas

Probably boosted by the recent Yayoi Kusama / Vuitton collab' which flooded social networks, polka dots are back in force:

Nina Ricci / Valentino
Balmain / Miu Miu

Red, that's it!

Victoria Beckham / Loewe
Stella McCartney / Y-Project


Yes, there is an alternative to the flood of black and white, it is this beautiful palette of warm tones, amber shades like a cognac:

Schiapparelli / Miu Miu
Dries Van Noten / Louis Vuitton

See also: 

-Boston Dynamics' robot dogs at Coperni:

-UV patterns at Unrealage:

-The debut of the troublemaker Harris Reed at Nina Ricci:

-The glittering and unreal silhouettes of Noir Kei Ninomiya :

-In Milan, the Bottega Veneta show signed by the Franco-Belgian Matthieu Blazy:

-Diesel or the resurrection of the 2000s in front of a mountain of condoms with a logo:

Thomas Zylberman
Senior Designer Women's RTW

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